Lewis Chessmen Redisplayed at National Museum of Scotland: Visitors Can Now See Their Backs

The iconic Lewis chessmen, known for their distinctive expressions and intricate carving, have been redisplayed at the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh, allowing visitors to see their backs for the first time.

The pieces, believed to have been made in Norway around 1200, were part of a large hoard discovered in Lewis in the early 19th century. While 11 pieces are in the National Museums Scotland collection, the remaining 82 are in the British Museum’s collection, with six on loan to Museum nan Eilean in Lewis.

Made from walrus ivory and sperm whale teeth, the chess pieces are well-known for their detailed carvings and unique expressions. Curators say that while the fronts of the pieces are famous, the backs are just as interesting and intricately detailed.

Ten of the pieces from the NMS collection have been redisplayed with new lighting, layout, and interpretation. Senior curator Alice Blackwell highlighted the intricate details on the backs of the pieces, particularly on the throne backs with entwined tendrils and knotwork.

The hoard discovered in Lewis contained 93 gaming pieces, including at least four chess sets and other games. At the time the pieces were made, Lewis was part of the Norse-Gaelic Kingdom of the Isles, with a strong Scandinavian influence in the region.

It is not known who buried the pieces or why, but they may have belonged to a merchant traveling from Scandinavia to sell the playing sets or a local prince, bishop, or leader on Lewis. The pieces are now positioned prominently at the museum in Edinburgh, visible from the Kingdom of the Scots gallery and Hawthornden Court.